Taste the brisket: B&D Trap brings low-and-slow Texas barbecue to Fort Lauderdale
As a non-Texan who’s smoked brisket in Dubai, beef sausage in Vegas and pork ribs in London, pitmaster Orelle Young thinks Texas barbecue’s center of gravity is everywhere — especially Fort Lauderdale’s Sistrunk Boulevard. He’s here at B&D Trap early Thursday, sweating despite the shade of a screened-in patio, flipping and pulling glazed ribs from a Primitive Pits offset smoker and 14-hour brisket from an Ole Hickory commercial gas smoker. At his new roadside stop, four blocks west of the L.A. Lee YMCA, Young aims to challenge long-held beliefs about the cult of Texas ‘cue: What it is, where it’s made, who’s allowed to make it. An order of pulled pork is ready to be wrapped up at B&D Trap barbeque in the Sistrunk neighborhood of Fort Lauderdale. “We get it out of the smoker just before opening, which is 11 a.m.,” he says. “Let’s...